Method of making welting



Jan. 3, 1939. H LYON METHOD OF MAKING WELTING Filed May 20, 1957 1754277 ywa W MM B Patented Jan. 3, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING WELTING Richard H. Barbour Application May 20, 1937, Serial No. 143,712

7 Claims.

This invention relates to welting for shoes and has for an object to produce a welting having a bead on its upper face to extend into the crease between the shoe upper and the upper face of the welt, and to make such a bead by cutting and folding the strip material without the use of a filler within the bead.

A further object is to provide a method of cutting such Welting from. strip material Without waste, the stock there remaining from the cutting being a strip of welting material of a type different from the heading welting, but which of itself forms a merchantable welt strip.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is a transverse section through a blank from which the welting may be cut.

Figures 2 and 3 are similar views showing successive stages in the cutting of the Welt.

Figures 4 and 5 are transverse sections showing two forms of the completed welt.

Figures 6 and '7 are views similar to Figures 3 and 5, respectively, but showing a modified construction and method of cutting.

Referring first to Figures 1, 2 and 3, at I is shown in cross section a strip of material such as leather of which the welt is to be formed and of a width substantially three times the desired width of welting to be out. As shown in Figure 2, this strip l is cut inwardly from the grain or top face as at the point 2 slightly to one side of the center of the strip, and this cut, which is started on a bevel curves outwardly and is extended as at 3 substantially parallel to the top and bottom faces of the strip and part way toward the edge 4. A second out similar to the first but facing in the opposite direction is started on the opposite side of the center line of the strip material, as at 5, first on a curving bevel and then substantially parallel to the top and bottom faces of the strip as at 6. These cuts serve to partly incise layers of grain material from the top face of the leather, the incisions extending only part way toward the edges of the strip. The strip may then be cut into three sections by the vertical longitudinal cuts I shown in Figure 3, positioned spaced from the uncut middle portion 8 which is of the full thickness of the strip, and beneath the partly incised strips or flaps 9 formed by the first cuts. These cuts 1 divide the strip into three parts, the opposite side portions being identical, except being reversed in the direction of the incised portions,

and the middle portion H being of a different cross section.

Each of the side portions I is then formed up as shown in Figure 4, the flap beingfolded back on itself to form an upwardly extending 6 bead I and the marginal portion l2 being brought down flat against the top face of the underlying material and secured thereto substantially co-terminous with the edge l3 left by the adjacent cut 7 of Figure 3. It will be noted that the outer edge of the flap is thinned, this forming a bevel as at 16, but since the bevel is formed entirely on the under face of the layer as cut, the strip presents, even in the beveled portion, the uncut grain face of the leather, this 15 grain face extending throughout the full width of the completed welt strip. At any suitable time in the process of manufacture, a stitch-receiving groove l8 may be cut in the lower or flesh face of the strip, as shown in Figure 2, this 0 groove, as shown, being cut during the early stage of the strip formation, although it may be done at any convenient time.

In order that the welt so constructed may have good strength to take the stitching, it is preferable that the strip partly incised from the grain face of the leather be about one-third of the total thickness, and that the leather stock used be of a good grade and thickness.

The middle strip i! may be formed as shown in Figure 5, being beveled alon one side at its top face, as at 20, and being provided with a stitch-receiving groove [8 on its lower face. The portion intermediate its width, on its upper face, as 8, presents the grain face of the leather and on opposite sides thereof it is thinner and presents cut sections of the leather. If desired, this strip may be subjected to a pressing or rolling operation to round over the edges of the central portion 8 and the cut top faces may be filled or 4 otherwise treated to present a desirable finish.

If desired, the strip for the beaded welting, such as shown in Figure 4, may be cut from a strip of material of a width initially equal to the width of the finished welting plus the width of a second strip forming a welting of a somewhat different type, or the beaded Welting of the type shown in Figure 4 may be cut from one edge of a strip of any desired width, leaving the remaining portion of the width, with a portion of its grain face along one edge removed, for later disposition in any way desired. For example, as shown in Figure 6, the top layer of grain material, as 25, may be cut inwardly from the grain face, as at 26, spaced a sufiicient distance from one edge of the double or other width material. When the material is of double width the opposite edge will be defined by a cut at 21. The strip may then be severed by the cut 28 beneath the layer 25, forming one cut strip identical with the strip NJ shown in Figure 3, and another strip 30 which presents the full thickness of the stock from the opposite edge to the line of the out 26, and a thinner portion presenting a cut face from the cut 26 to the cut 28, which cut face may receive a suitable finish. This strip, when formed of double width stock, is shown detached in Figure 7, the thinner edge being beveled as at 3| and a stitch-receiving groove I 8 being formed in its lower face. This also is a merchantable welting but of a different type from that formed up from the other portion of the double width strip.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. The method of cutting and forming leather welting, which comprises incising a pair of layers along spaced portions from the grain face extending toward opposite side edges of a strip of leather, severing the strip on opposite sides of said portion and beneath said layers to form a center and two side strips, said center strip having a portion intermediate to its side edges presenting the grain face of the leather and elsewhere thinner and presenting cut faces, and each side strip having a layer presenting the grain face wider than the underlying material, and folding the layers of said side strips back on themselves and securing them with edges substantially co-terminous to the corresponding edges of the underlying material.

2. The method of cutting welting, which comprises incising a pair of oppositely directed layers along spaced portions from the top face and extending toward opposite side edges of a strip of welt material, and then cutting through the underlying material beneath said layers and spaced on opposite sides of the uncut portion between the adjacent edges of said layers to form three strips of welt material, the center one of which has an intermediate lengthwise portion of the full thickness of the material and thinner portions on opposite sides, and the edge strips each having a layer partly incised from its upper face and of greater width than the underlying material.

3. The method of cutting welting, which comprises incising from the top face of a strip of welting material between its side edges and then toward one edge to form a layer and then cutting longitudinally of said strip through the material beneath said layer and spaced between the cut edge of said layer and the opposite edge of said strip to form a pair of welt strips, the one presenting the full thickness of the strip material for a portion of its width and a less thickness for the remainder of its width and the other presenting a layer partly incised from its top face and of greater width than the underlying material.

4. The method of forming welting from a leather strip, which comprises cutting said strip lengthwise into the grain face of the strip and from said out partly incising a layer from the grain side of the strip toward the opposite edge thereof, cutting through the underlying material beneath said layer and spaced inwardly from the free edge of said layer, and then folding the incised portion back on itself to form an upwardly extended bead and securing it to the underlying material with the outer edge of said incised portion substantially cO-terminous with the adjacent edge of the underlying material.

5. The method of forming welting from a leather strip, which comprises cutting said strip lengthwise into the grain face of the strip spaced from one edge and then curving into a plane substantially parallel to said face toward but terminating inwardly of said edge, cutting through the underlying material lengthwise inwardly from the free edge of the cut layer, and then folding and securing said out layer lengthwise of the strip back on itself to form a bead between its side edges and with its free edge substantially co-terminous with the cut edge of the underlying material.

6. The method of cutting and forming leather welting, which comprises incising a pair of layers spaced from each other by an intervening portion of the grain face and extending toward opposite side edges of a strip of leather, severing the strip on opposite sides of said intervening portion and beneath said layers to form a center and two side strips, and each side strip having a layer presenting the grain face wider than the underlying material, and folding the layers of said side strips back on themselves and securing them with edges substantially co-terminous to the corresponding edges of the underlying material.

'7. The method of cutting welting, which comprises incising a pair of oppositely directed layers spaced from each other by an intervening portion of the top face and extending toward opposite side edges of a strip of welt material, and then cutting through the underlying material beneath said layers and spaced on opposite sides of said intervening portion between the adjacent edges of said layers to form three strips of welt material, the side strips each having a layer partly incised from its upper face and of greater width than the underlying material.

HARRY LYON. 

